Prepare for the ensuing ‘food porn….’

Chef Enzo Fargione

by contributor Wendy Gordon

Photo credit: Wendy Gordon 
Additional photo credit: Michael Palmer

Enzo Fargione’s new restaurant Elisir opened on Wednesday.  We’ll eat to that!  

With a dining area that boasts an open kitchen complete with live feed video for those who may not have a true ‘window’ seat and a bar area that offers such specialties as an exclusively bottled ‘sparkling Negroni,’ as well as a wine list that is not only approachable, but has some really good bargains, this new fixture on 11th Street is coming on strong.

Elisir offers a 7 and a 10 course tasting menu at the dinner hour(s) as well as a la carte offerings that highlight Fargione’s facility with both flavor and presentation.  

At lunch, the restaurant has more of a bistro feel, with a simpler a la carte menu and a limited selection of plates at the bar.  

Service is attentive and friendly; the staff is completely knowledgeable; the room is clean and light wood and glass comfortably contemporary.
 
An opening day lunchtime repast included everything from soup to nuts, albeit not necessarily in that order.  The menu is extensive.   Ladies and Gentlemen: not to offend, but prepare for the ensuing ‘food porn….’

Every good meal starts with bread.  While normally this is an accompaniment, and so often eschewed by diners anxiously awaiting their other courses, not here.  From a tomato focaccia to sundried tomato to garlic and olive oil, we found ourselves fighting not to ruin our appetites with that alone.  

An array of artichokes and a silky, brilliantly mild Buratta served on grape leaves and adorned with fried basil leaves and prosciutto followed.   

A garbanzo bean soup was more a stew—a hearty plate of perfectly cooked beans with a mountain of thinly sliced fried onions on top—the textures melding perfectly with a warm clear broth.  Beet salad was replete with goat cheese as well as (and here come the nuts, folks) delicately flavored pine nuts, adding a crunch and distinctive flavor.

Pesto linguine was al dente as it should be, with tender fried calamari dotting its surface.   While most people would be full at this point, MY group was just beginning—nothing but intrepid.  Go us! 

Entrees:  Meat, fowl and fish.  Chicken was uber moist and served with an earthy wild mushroom ragout that tasted of autumn.  

Porquetta  brought piles of this traditional dish which was moist and topped with broccolini—perfectly cooked—both the meat and the vegetable.  Salmon was served, again, with lightly fried basil leaves.  

But wait!  There’s more!   Did someone say “dessert?”   Hello, lover!  

Photo credit: Michael Palmer

While most people would be ready for that ‘one wafer-thin mint,’ our group was poised to dig right in.  A creamy panna cotta with caramel and apples, not to mention homemade ice cream and richly light whipped cream and a symphony of lusciously layered chocolate cake finished off the meal.

Photo credit: Michael Palmer

We can’t wait to go back for dinner, although we may need a backhoe to cart us home.  
 
Elisir is located at 427 11th Street N.W. and is open for lunch Monday-Friday from 11:30-2:30 and dinner 6 days a week—Monday-Thursday 5:30-10:30; and to 11:30 Friday and Saturday.  Reservations can be made through Opentable.com or at the website elisirrestaurant.com.

Presenting ELISIR: